Goldfish in Aquariums

by DazedAndConfused 16 Replies latest jw friends

  • DazedAndConfused
    DazedAndConfused

    DJK, I thought buying from Petsmart was a step better than Walmart, who's fish swim sideways and have ick so bad it flows in the water. From past experience though I find this purchase no worse than a few pet shops I have bought fish from.

    No new fish. I was told these fish COULD live 12 years or so, I just might need to go up in size (of the tank) occasionally since they grow so fast. Both were new to me recently. Within a month. I bought something to condition the water before introducing new water. I put in "Clear Water" when the water became cloudy. I did not scrape the sides of the tank because I know that you need bacteria in the water.

    Years ago I had a 40 gal. tank and after awhile I got the hang of it. I did find out then that our water was not fit for consumption. (Now I buy bottled water for us. LOL)

    I remember years ago that my brother came from NY to AZ with a fish that they kept in a bowl and even set it in the rear window (can you imagine the sunburn? *shivers*) Anyway, I digress. The fish lived through 3,000 miles and many changes until it hit Tucson. We changed the water and within 24 hours it was dead.

    So far so good on the change of water last night with filtered water. This fish was hiding, and gasping, but now it has life and is even eating.

  • Ingenuous
    Ingenuous

    Hi, Dazed.

    Goldfish are the only fish I've concentrated on, pet-wise. They can live 20+ years, but the fancier varieties have more stringent needs than the common comet goldfish. You said you had a "bubble" head variety. Do you know if it is a "crown" (like on a pearlscale), a "cap" or "wen" (like on an oranda)? Also, does it have a dorsal (back) fin, or is it a bare-back variety like a ranchu or lionhead? Or even a "bubble eye" (with sacs beneath the eye)? Each breed has some particular issues which need to be addressed.

    Some fancies like a little heat in their tanks - as much as 78 degrees. Professional breeders debate back and forth about heating a tank, but many problems are resolved with a little heat and a tiny bit of salt added to the water. (Though I wouldn't recommend experimenting with either right now. Salt can help with high ammonia levels, but there are other steps you can take before going that route.)

    As was mentioned, the ammonia levels are going to be higher in a tank that is newly established or which has been "stripped" for cleaning. Ammonia levels also rise slightly when new fish are added to the tank. The beneficial bacterial take a while to catch up. You'll need to do larger and more frequent water changes until the ammonia levels go down, vacuuming the gravel during each change. Additives to reduce ammonia are nice, but water changes are the key. Don't panic and change the water when it gets cloudy - you've got a bacterial bloom going and don't want to disrupt it. Since you'll be doing a lot of water changes, I'd recommend a Python system - they make changing water and vacuuming gravel a snap. Ask about it at the pet store and they'll help you find one suited to your tank size.

    There are supplements you MUST add to tap water to remove chlorine and neutralize metals and other additives. Many aquarists swear by Prime by Seachem.You'll also need a test kit to keep an eye on ammonia levels. (Break down and get one instead of going to the aquarium store for testing - you'll need it, at least in the beginning, to get a warning about problems which are developing in the tank and to know when and how much water to change.) After ammonia levels go down, the nitrite level will go up. After that, you'll start seeing nitrates, which means you've got a well-established community of beneficial bacteria. Nitrates only cause problems when they're at very high levels for long periods of time. Keeping the water well-oxygenated is also important, especially while your tank is "cycling" and building its internal ecosystem. You should aim your filter output toward the water surface - that's where oxygen enters the water. This also means being careful of what you spray in the air or use to clean around your tank, as it will enter the water at the surface. Be careful also of how much you are feeding when you've got high ammonia levels.

    I would not add a lot of gravel to the tank. If you have more than 3/4 of an inch or so of gravel in the tank, take some out. Goldfish produce a lot of waste and deeper gravel makes it harder to get the gravel vacuumed out and kept clean. Pockets of dangerous gases will collect in stagnant areas of gravel and, when disrupted, can quickly kill your fish. Many goldfish keepers don't even use gravel in their tanks (going "barebottom"). I keep a little in my tank because goldfish like to forage and they seem bored without gravel to play with. While bacteria will make a home in the gravel, they also live on the inside of the aquarium walls, in the water, and in the filter. You can also get a filter which provides "biological" filtration, which means it provides a surface area for bacteria to live on. This part of the filter is usually never changed out and is only occassional rinsed in aquarium water - not straight tap water which will kill-off the bacteria colony.

    The sites which were recommended to you are excellent. I'm especially partial to Goldfish Connection. If you go to their site, page-down the left-side menu until you see the "Information" links. You should find all the guidance you need there. It will be a big help in getting a weekly maintenance routine established and helping you to pick-up on potential problems before they get out-of-hand. The site owner is always willing to help if you contact him with questions. Some good forums are available as well: try Goldfish Utopia and Goldfish Paradise, as well as the forum at KoKo's. Search the older messages and you'll find a huge amount on issues similar to your own without having to start new threads. I'd also recommend the book Fancy Goldfish by Johnson and Hess. It contains almost everything you'd want to know about everyday care and disease treatment.

    Good Luck!

  • restrangled
    restrangled

    DazedandConfused,

    Glad to hear your fish is doing better. I had a great filter system that had water wheels for my tropical tank (100) gallons. I had to clean and drain about every 6 months.

    The pond I had was actually an in ground hot tub that we didn't use. It went a full year before I felt I needed to change the water. That held just a regular pond filter. It reached a great state of PH, bacteria etc. The gold fish thrived. I had one of those bubble heads. I named him Harold. All became very tame and would watch for me and come swimming over actually eating out of my hand. When I lost them all with the water change, there was no flushing these fish....way too big! It was so sad to wrap them in newspaper and throw them away. I didn't have the heart to start over.

    I know it sounds crazy getting attached to fish, but they have personalities too!

    r.

  • aoxo
    aoxo

    i'd like to focus my comment more on your filter. you said that it was very dirty. if you have a foam insert in the filter (im assuming its a hang on the side filter) then that insert must be rinsed when it gets clogged. the reason why your water got smoggy when you did a water change was because there was an influx of bacteria growth. that is actualy what that smog stuff was. the bacteria were floating around in the water because it didn't have a place to live yet. like was mentioned before you need a bigger biological filter so that there is plenty of surface area for the bacteria to grow, and you will need a lot of it since goldfish are very active and therefore produce more waste. i think that not rinsing (preferably in a bucket of old fish water) the biological filter insert is what crashed your tank. just rinse the filter, do a water change using dechlorinator/stress coat drops to add to the water and keep an eye on your fish. i wouldn't take anything out of your tank like the decore because bacteria lives on that stuff and can be usefull to recolonising your tank faster. make sure your dechlorinator also has stress coating which helps build a slime coat on the fish, reducing its chances of getting sick from bad bacteria. adding salt to the water is a debate among fish enthusiasts. it seems to do the same thing that stress coating does, mainly contributing to the stress coating on the fish.

  • gaiagirl
    gaiagirl

    What size tank do you have, and what kind of filter are you using? I used to have 7 goldfish in a tank, they lived for years until they got so big that the filters could not keep up with their podigious waste generation, so I put them in a pond in the back yard. You need to understand that there are beneficial bacteria which colonize a tank, and process the ammonia which is in the fish waste. However, it takes a few weeks to make a good bacterial colony. Until then, the water quality will not be optimal, because there simply aren't enough bacteria to keep up. You can the help the bacteria grow by changing NO MORE THAN 20% of the water each day or so. This is in order to prevent too great a shock, and to allow the bacteria to grow. Also, DO NOT OVERFEED your fish. If you give them more than they can eat in five minutes, then there is too much food in the tank, which will cloud the water. I feed my fish once a day, no more. DO NOT use an undergravel filter. These just suck wastes down below the gravel, where it collects and fouls the water. Use a filter with a bio-wheel, such as the Emperor 280 or 400 (depending on the size of the tank), or a Penguin, both made by Marineland. Finally, DO NOT use gravel in the bottom of the tank. Food falls down into the gravel where fish can't reach it, and where it rots. Use either sand, or "Eco-Complete" aquarium soil (great for live plants). Anubis plants are very hardy and don't require as much light to be healthy as other plants. I hope your goldfish survive, however in the event that they don't, I suggest you try tetras, which don't poop nearly as much, come in many colorful varieties, and are quite hardy as well.

  • DazedAndConfused
    DazedAndConfused

    Thank you all for your input. I am thrilled that so many have responded. Like I said my fish is doing ok because I have "listened" to so many and I am right now trying to ignore the color of the water and changing the water everyday. It is hard, but I am trying to live out the color of the tank. With the changes of water, all seems to be doing well.

  • UnConfused
    UnConfused

    Quick question: Who pays $15 for a goldfish? Isn't that a LOT for a common fish?

    Glad your aquapal is doing fine.

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