Last year we were visiting Armenia and Iran (my family and another JW family). Talking to JW in Armenia, we were told there are JW in Iran and we got contact to one family in Teheran. To our surprise we really were able to get in touch with them when we arrived in Teheran. They were lovely and extremely friandly (as all persians in Iran). However there is just a very small number of them, just in Teheran and another iranian city (dont want be more specific...) and they all are descendants of armenian christians (there is a large armenian population in Iran). They are technicaly under ban, but the goverment doesnt give them any hard time as long as they only preach to non-muslim population. It is unthinkable to speak about the Bible to muslims (100% death penalty, execution by stone pelting still being practiced...) and it is unthinkable for a muslim to change religion...
I feel sorry for those JWs we could meet, because for them being JW means a clear identity in a very hostile enviroment, and they have very limited chance to leran the real truth...
Albert