Lisa,
I started Alpine. Being European, I still think it is the most sophisticated style.
I have to say though, the Russians are totally without fear, but theytake no prisoners. Climb or die!!
Refiners,
Krakauer did Boukreev a disservice. He acted like any guide should in those circumstances and showed tremendous courage and resliliance beyond the normal.
Both Krakauer and Boukreev were present at a dinner function I was attended between June '96 and his death on Annapurna a few weeks later. They almost came to blows. I would have been quite pleased to have seen Krakauer chewing on a crampon...lol
Kralauer did however, write one of the most exciting books about mountaineering that I have ever read.
Best you you - HS