by designs 28 Replies latest social current
International Surfing Day was begun in 1984, today there are 200 Events in 30 Countries participating in ISD.
Part of the excellent work Surfrider does in communities throughout the world is draw attention to Clean Water for our Oceans, Lakes, and Rivers.
Come and join a local Festival http://isd.surfrider.org
What's this have to do with Issa?
Surfing is a very spiritual thing.
who surfs here send me a letter pm? am?
It is very spiritial, done on energy that only could have come from an energetic person and it one of the best ways to be totally oblivious of wt doctrine.
Whether you surf, body surf or just enjoy being in the water its all good and one of those existential things we do for pure enjoyment.
M&M- you know I think ol Issa has actually been on a surfboard so he can't be totally
Do any of you remember Bruce Brown's film ENDLESS SUMMER
design, the earth would not be a good design with out the sea bottom contours that shape those great waves.
Being the water is intimate.
body serving or Boggy-boarding is getiing the rush of energy. Standing, moving on a surfboard is another matter altogether. liberating. an amazing high in a literal and spiritual way.
My life was the ocean for as far back as I remember. My father bought my elder brothers an okanui hollow board in the 50's and I was in the surf before I could swim at 6. Without giving too much away, my brother became very famous as a surfer, shaper and writer and still is. I made surfboards for years and surfed nearly daily until I had two accidents. One in 10 to 12 foot cyclone swell where I got hammered by the lip and broke two ribs, tore my stomach muscles and had a night in hospital with a bruised heart. Second was a ruptured disc which is a common surfers injury from long term paddling with an arched back. I have met many famous surfers and as a child met the Duke (Kahanmoku), surfed and partied with Michael Petersen and generally lived the surfer's life. I now bodysurf as my father first taught me but sometimes use fins (like in Bali!).
The ocean revives me when life's tests arrive and I will be scattered in it when I die....
DD:- I use surfing as an analogy to our life, the ride is short, it is the use of energy, it is exhilirating, it took effort (mostly by your parents) to catch the wave (life). Like time, the ocean water is stationary (on average) as the wave energy moves through it and you move forward with the wave, slicing through the water. With skill, and will (and a long enough board, you can ride the wave (your life) all the way into the beach sand. You might on the way in even catch a second break when the wave goes over a sandbank at high tide. If your lucky, your life (ride) happenes at high tide. like right now.
Waves like light have dual nature, both wave energy and particles. They become hitting particles when they break, become a bore. thats when the injuies occur, getting hit by a wave.
There was a great film produced by Surfer Magazine on the history of surfing. One of the great parts was wood blocks showing Ingidenous South Americans surfing centuries before Europeans showed up. Why did they surf- FUN!
and the same joy is had by animals, long before humans for sure, dolphines surf, seals. Birds surf on WIND WAVES in front of slopes. water waves. Now dolphins surf in front of ships, and human surfers have taken to riding the bow waves of supertankers too.
the Universe and its energy is meant to be enjoyed, not religioned* to death.
(c) prologos.
