 THE COMPLETE HISTORY OF NECKTIES
The necktie has its jump-start into fashion 333 years prior to the new Millennium. A King, a war, an usual army with an unusual dress and a noble cause and that no less set the stage for a fashion accessory that lives on to this day. "There is a clear-cut relationship between fashion on one hand, and power and wealth on the other. Fashion generally follows power and wealth." This old adage spells out the creation of the evolution on neckwear not its origin. However, without this acceptance of tying cloth around a man's neck in the 17th century, neckties would not have had their fateful way in the world.
Neckties were an unusual thought as a fashion accessory in China in 221 B.C., the first known existence of fabric wrapping a man's neck. In the Neckwear industry this is an interestingly known fact, as a result of the excavation in China of the "Terracotta Army of the first Emperor of China" in 1970 - Among the 7000 terracotta soldiers un-earthed dressed in armor, many of which had a necktie wrapping their necks. The use of neckwear in China ended after the Han Dynasty took rule and neckwear would not be seen again in China until the 20th century. In 101 - 106 B.C. the Roman Military is seen in paintings with neckwear worn as a random uniform. Although non-Roman soldiers were probably the only to wear at "necktie" as it is common thought that the fashion rule of Rome kept necks free of cloth.
Roman Soldiers.
A little more then 1,600 years later, again in the form of military dress - is the introduction of men's neckwear seen by historians. Historians noticed for the third time, and also the first widely recognized appearance of neckwear, during a thirty-year 'religious" war in the early 17th century waged by King Charles V of Spain against reformists. Fashion trends developed as soldiers from all of Europe fought and cultures and dress clashed. Mutual respect and honor followed the battles that inflamed all of the European Continent creating changes that effected at the very least acceptance of religious belief, geography and national borders, cultural tolerance, government, a realignment of European power and influence, and even fashion.King Louis XIV of France.
The dress accepted "fashionable" throughout most of Europe was lace ruffs around the neck. Even after the Middle Ages, dress was "ruled appropriate" for each class. War was expensive forcing many cost savings measures, and fashion was one cut back as men were to adorn ruffs with a strict law allowing men to wear ruffs only at funerals and other such occasions, ( ruffs were an expensive use of lace up top 15 meters ). The Croatian soldier wearing a cravatta or cravat ( English translation "necktie" ) as part of his uniform caught the attention of the continent. This Middle Age Custom or dress was in part, a form of identification on the battlefield and also part of folk costume. Wearing this neckwear in battle throughout Europe, the Croatian Soldiers gained respect - widely known for their mercenary ways. They were recruited along with German Soldiers by France, in 1635, after France declared war on Spain - entering the conflict, short on troops and willing to hire soldiers. The Croatian soldiers and their cravats were noticed not only by many European Nations including the fashionable French, but more importantly by royalty. By fate, around this time the shirt collar - turned down came into fashion, a result of the formal decree by all countries ruled by Spain, Austria and other Catholic countries banning ruffs" Capitulos de reformacias 1623". This was a time that the "golilla" a Spanish term for a linen and cardboard collar was accepted. And a fine cloth to wrap the collar closed was a natural.
However, the necktie or cravat was only noted by the French, and not accepted as a fashion style. Only after two decades, did King Louis XIV of France, 1638 – 1715, fancy the cravat. The necktie-cravat was not "accepted attire" at court as old standing customs governed fashion. This changed when the Queen Mother Anne of Austria ( born in Spain ) died giving King Louis XIV rule of his right. A painting by Henri Testelin hangs at Versailles depicting King Louis XIV wearing a cravat. His necktie collection was extensive made from fine fabrics and styled by the most revered fashion designers of the time. He had is own "cravatier" who would lay our several cravats each day for the King to select which one he would wear. With-in one year of King Louis XIV acceptance of the cravatte, London’s elite became enamored by the fashion and King Charles II of England the British spent fortunes on expensive lace from Venice to have his neckwear made.
The "Royal Cravates" regiment of Croatian soldiers, formed in 1667, wore cravats made of linen, lace, and muslin. Uniforms for soldiers were not commonplace among military and this neckwear dress was a distinctive dress. The Royal Cravats fighting as mercenaries for France and with the French support, suffered great losses politically while attempting a "coup" in a struggle for self rule. The country of Croatia never fully recovered from the failed conspiracy against their un-wanted rule by the Halsburgs. They were different, noble and they had a political cause that may have drawn sympathy from King Louis XIV. His acceptance of the Cravat was the birth of a fashion phenomenon that swept the globe and continuing today in men's attire. The Dutch, Belgians, and even English authors were fond of cravats but the credit for making the cravat fashionable was King Louis XIV. Thus, "fashion follows power and wealth." Napoleon.
The French led the fashion world through the 18th Century up until the French Revolution of 1789-1799. English influence became predominant after the beginning of the 19th Century. “George” Beau Brummel 1778 - 1840 a leader in British Fashion of the day brought the necktie to great innovation influencing the Prince of Wales - later to become King George IV. Beau Brummel’s details of necktie knotting and design won him favour with England and most of Europe. Ties were still black or white and great discussion was involved about this in England, Germany, France, Italy and other European nations. In 1820 when King George V was crowned he introduced the black tie, which was not so popular with his guests – who often kept a white tie in their pockets. After the beginning of 19th Century colored neckties and neckties with patterns appeared partially due to schools, hunting, sports, and military. By the mid 19th Century neckties started to resemble modern day neckwear.
Since the British had colonies throughout the world their necktie fashion spread to almost every continent with China the only exception. The French did not except the British fashion and tried to go their own way concerning men’s fashion and neckwear. Great men throughout history wore neckties; Napoleon I Emperor of France wore his cravat - a soldier from a young age, as did George Washington -soldier and father of the United States, Benjamin Franklin a statesman, and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, ( certainly not a soldier ). Any painting depicting these honored men and other celebrated men will illustrate a cravat tied around their necks. The Duke and Dutchess of Windsor - now that is quite another story. It was not just by chance that the famous necktie knot became to be known worldwide as the Windsor.
The shape and design of colors and patterns of the cravat changed and of course the military again dictated this. Before the turn of the 20th century, realizing that their soldiers were easy targets wearing bright red uniforms, the British were outfitted with drab green uniforms. Each regiment decided on their own, what tie to wear with a different stripe going across in a pattern of colors and stripe width. With this need to be individual the "Rep Stripe" necktie was born. Across the Atlantic American soldiers followed suite, however the stripes go the other way. European Rep Stripe vs. American Rep Stripe. The difference is the direction of the stripe from the left shoulder crossing the heart or from the right shoulder crossing the heart.
This New World American vs. the Old World European look was distinctive and of course gave way to British designers fashion designers creating ties with poka-dots and colorful patterns. These designs produced and un-likely trend with retailers - much like a women's thought for fashion - but for a product meant for a man. This was a marketing ploy probably, as fashion houses took note that women were buying their men neckties. Appealing to their sense of color and style was natural.
A major contribution to the necktie was by an American tie manufacturer Jesse Langsdorf. His idea was simple; three pieces of fabric cut and sewn together with the invetion of the slip stitch along the back of the tie closing the envelope. This stitch allowed the tie to move along the closing thread while tieing knots; iliminated ironing and necktie damage from the abuse of the taking the tie on and off. The necktie had reached it's present form in 1924 of the patented design.
The modern necktie as we know it evolved from this form. Shrinking in width every 15 years or so from about 1 ½ inches to about 4 ½ inches in accordance with shirt collar and lapel width and shape and the shape of a jacket opening. Salvador Dali created the first recognized novelty ties taking his artwork and ilustrating ties much to the surprise of the art world. Peter Max among others followed with unique neckties for a man to express himself. The 80's saw the "Power Tie" and the 90's saw casual dress take it's toll. Still neckwear remained a statement of being serious about business and of course being silly. The silly side gave way to fun ties. Novelty neckties illustrating themes, hobbies, Van Gogh Art work and Marilyn Monroe, etc. by the Ralph Marlin Company became wildly popular in the 90's. At a time when fashion was pushing all limits Gianni Versace created neckties with enough emotion, color and vivid design to stop traffic and get recognized. And then came Rush Limbaugh with enough color and abstract patterns to cause a national phenomenon in America.
Neckties had truly become an important fashion accessory using color and pattern to create a means of a man's self-expression. If the King of France, King Louis XIV could have ever imagined what he started. Well that is one the French can claim for the record. |
THE COMPLETE HISTORY OF NECKTIES