No expert, but Gina and I went once and had a blast. We took several of the tour packages offered on about every corner. People walk up to you jamming tour offers in your face. I don't know how you tell the legitimate ones from the fake ones. Our travel agency (Apple) set ours up so we just did those. Took a few snorkeling tours, a power boat ride through the jungle, a horseback ride along the beach, and a group of us went on a Trimaran (sp?) [three-hulled boat] ride. No disappointments at all. Would go again in a heartbeat.
About the best time we had was in a little bar behind and to the left of the Hard Rock cafe. The band played for awhile, then sat down for a break. We bought them drinks, so they came over and chatted with us. They only spoke Spanish, we only spoke English, so it wasn't much of a chat, but still fun. When Gina got up for a bit, I managed to ask one of them to wave to her from the stage when they played again. Instead, they invited her on stage and let her play the drums with them! The look on her face, such total unbridled joy as she played drums in a real band by invitation, was one of the best images I recorded in my mind. I can still see her there, so happy, having so much fun.
Save us a spot on the beach, we'll join ya'!
Dave